Oysters, I love them pretty much any way I can get them and you should too. Still, there are many among us that are not interested, particularly in eating raw oysters. People site health risks or fears of getting sick. The CDC reports approximately 35 deaths related to contaminated oysters per year. Such an occurrence requires the coming together of several factors generally including contaminated oysters, improper handling or preparation, and an immunocompromised individual. So 35 deaths per year, while we have over 3500 COVID-19 deaths per day and folks are still wishy-washy on getting vaccinated? Let’s move on…
If the thought of a raw oyster doesn’t appeal to you, for whatever reason, I can understand. So, let’s cook them! Oh, there are so many options from grilled, fried, broiled, or even roasted. But what about perhaps the most famous preparation of them all? OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER!
Antoine’s Restaurant is remarkable in its own right and remains the oldest continually family-run restaurant in US history.
When it comes to Oysters Rockefeller, there’s what we know, and what we know that we don’t know. What we know is that the dish was created at Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans, Louisiana. Established in 1840 Antoine’s Restaurant is remarkable in its own right and remains the oldest continually family-run restaurant in US history. Jules Alciatore, the son of the original owner Angelo “Antoine” Alciatore, trained in the great kitchens of Paris, Marseille, and Strassburg before returning home and heading the kitchen at Antoine’s, which was then being managed by his mother. In 1899 Jules created the famous Oysters Rockefeller, so named after the wealthiest man of the day John D. Rockefeller of Standard Oil fame. Notably, adjusted for inflation, Rockefeller remains the richest man in modern history with an estimated $400B vs Elon Musk’s modest $185B. Ooh wee, that oil money!
We also think we know that oysters were not the first option. Evolving tastes of the time and a shortage of French snails forced Jules’ hand into using the ubiquitous and local gulf oysters as a replacement. We also know that the original recipe is one of the most duplicated and sought-after recipes in the world and Oysters Rockefeller remains one of the great culinary inventions ever.
What we don’t know, is what that original Antoine’s recipe actually is. The dish, so rich in taste as to warrant the Rockefeller homage, consists of a decadent sauce of pureed green herbs and vegetables, butter and bread crumbs. This puree was crowned atop an oyster on its half shell and the concoction was baked/broiled. The actual recipe, taken to the grave with Jules, remains a fiercely guarded secret within the family and despite the widespread popularity of the dish, all versions are at best a reimagining of the original.
Most modern versions share a base of melted butter and some combination of sauteed shallots, onions, or scallions. Nearly all use the shortcut of spinach to achieve the vibrant green color, in addition to a medley of various vegetables and herbs including celery, parsley, chervil, tarragon, even scallions. It’s believed that Antoine’s recipe uses watercress and has no spinach at all. Modern recipes commonly finish with cheese, romano, or parmesan being most common, while others add cream to the mixture. Anise flavored liqueur scents and gently lends its flavor to the medley and it’s all topped with bread crumbs. The point is, the original recipe is so stellar, that practically any combination that approximates it consistently results in something delicious.
For over 120 years Oysters Rockefeller has delighted diners from all walks of life from royalty to local laborers. And I encourage you to join that long list of happy bons vivants. For the oyster lovers amongst you, grab a couple dozen of the tantalizing bivalves and mix your own concoction. I have the utmost confidence that you will have no regrets and may even surprise yourself. For those apprehensive of oysters, consider this an entry program, as these fanciful treats are fully cooked, bursting with flavor and quite easy to assemble. And by all means, if you find yourself in New Orleans, make your way to Antoine’s Restaurant and sample the original that started it all.
Why aren’t I giving a recipe? Because, as I mentioned, nobody outside of Antoine’s knows. So why pretend to? Take the foundation, and do it YOUR WAY!
